Mini-break from Phuket: Udon Thani, Nong Kai and Vientaine

Udon Thani is a 90 minute flight from Phuket direct with Air Asia. From Udon Thani airport it’s just 56km down a good highway to Nong Kai and the border with Laos. It’s an ideal weekend getaway from Phuket and an option for Phuket expats doing a visa run. Flights, food and accommodation can all be had cheaply. The Isaan area of Thailand is visited by only about 2% of tourists so if you want to experience real Thailand away from the crowds it’s highly recommended. Isaan people are friendly with a real sense of fun.

In truth there is not much to see in Udon Thani town, I would recommend heading straight to Nong Kai and getting a guesthouse/hotel close to the Mekong river front. The river is nice to stroll along or just sit at one of the restaurants to enjoy the delicious food. Try the Isaan specialties of Somtam (Green Payaya Salad) and Larb (ground pork/chicken/duck with chilli). Both are eaten with sticky rice and go well with cold beer. Isaan spicy sausages are also great snacks.

For sightseeing in Nong Kai you could hire a motorbike or bicycle and explore the countryside. A must see attraction just a few kilometres out of town is Sala Keaw Ku, a bizarre statue park. (A tuk tuk will take you there and wait for you for about 150 baht).

There isn’t a whole lot of nightlife in Nong Kai, not by Phuket standards anyway. There are a few beer bars around the Rimkong Road that are a little tired. An alternative is the Riverside Country Pub by the Thai-Laos Riverside Hotel with has live Thai bands each night and gets busy with locals on the weekend. It’s a good atmosphere. They also serve food. Nearby is Bar Nana nightclub.

For those on a budget the Ruan Thani guesthouse with air-con rooms at 400 baht is well located on Rim Kong road. It’s close to the covered market and the riverfront restaurants. The staff are friendly, the wifi is free.

The Friendship Bridge from Nong Khai over the border into Laos is just a few km’s out of town (50 baht in a tuk tuk). Many travelers skip Nong Khai and go straight from Udon Thani airport to the bridge. Be aware though that the bridge is not open 24 hours, it closes in the evenings (no one seems to know the exact opening hours). When you arrive at the bridge and check out of Thailand you jump on the bus that takes you across the bridge (20 baht) to Lao immigration. Most nationalities can get a visa on arrival for about US$35 and a passport photo. Taxis and tuk tuks will be waiting for you outside immigration to take you to Vientaine (get ready to haggle).

Vientaine is a sleepy capital city. If you stay somewhere near the centre you can stroll around most of the attractions. There is not much to see, a few temples, monuments and the odd National Museum. The main draw is again the riverfront which comes alive in the evening when locals and tourists alike come out to walk and eat. Street restaurants spring up along the road at dusk enticing you in with the smell of grilled chicken (Ping Gai). Because the restaurants are on the opposite side of the road to the river you can’t actually see the river while you sit and eat which is a shame.

If you like beer, you’ll love Lao beer, one of the best beers in the world and cheap at 10,000 kip (40 baht) for a big bottle. Don’t expect any nightlife in Vientaine though, the place is pretty much dead by 11pm.

Lao people are friendly. If you can speak Thai they will understand you.

I stayed at the Mongkol hotel at one end of the riverfront road. I was very unimpressed and wouldn’t recommend it. It’s old and musty and the road is currently being dug up making for a muddy walk in the dark in the evenings.

I applied for a Thai Visa at the embassy while in Vientaine and will post separately on that for anyone interested.

All in all an excellent short break from Phuket. Although I’m glad to have seen Vientaine I don’t feel the need to go back, two days is enough. I preferred Nong Kai which as well as the river restaurants also had some places to go in the evening. Travelers who skip Nong Kai in order to get into Laos quickly are missing out. I may visit Nong Kai again, maybe in October for the Naga fireball festival.